Planning a day in Ümraniye starts with deciding which overpass to drive under. Written off twenty years ago as "way up there," it now spins in a triangle of office towers, malls, and intersections. Concrete and traffic on one side, Çamlık's hushed green on the other — bounce between the two and you won't notice the evening ending. Can't decide what to do? Don't worry, roll the dice — Ümraniye offers three directions at every intersection anyway.