You want a coffee spot you can sit in without getting restless — somewhere between phone, book, and however long the conversation runs. BÖRÜ KAFE & NARGİLE & AKILLI OKEY over in Ümraniye might turn out to be exactly that kind of place. Some afternoons the room fills with laptops, some afternoons it's tea glasses and a backgammon board running into its third game — you won't know which crowd you're walking into until you're standing in the doorway.