A table in the middle of clattering service, the smell drifting out of the kitchen, the last clinks of finished plates — Gülmahal Restaurant Kafe, Kendin Pişir Mangal ve Serpme Kahvaltı in Arnavutköy adds its own note to that restaurant hum, whatever that note turns out to be. Early hours tend to suit a quiet conversation; peak hours, when there are any, put you right in the middle of the noise. The mood shifts depending on when you walk in.