Glasses clinking, the murmur of conversation, and depending on the format, either music or the bubble of a hookah — MEŞE OCAKBAŞI RESTAURANT MEYHANE (ONUR RESTAURANT) in Bayrampaşa blends these night sounds into its own version. Early evening is the warm-up phase, late night is the peak; the same place can feel like two different venues depending on when you walk in.